Let's Start Fishing!

It's the end of a long day of hiking. You're sitting by a lake on a rock, your fishing rod in your hands. It's beautiful enough just enjoying the scenery and the quiet sounds of wildlife. Then it happens. A slight tug on the line. Then another. What do you do? Is it time to pull in the line? Or do you wait for another bite?

Tip

• If you happen to be visiting a national park, you can usually buy a license that permits you to fish throughout the park. In some cases, nonresidents have to pay more for their fishing licenses than do residents. People caught fishing without a license may find themselves stopped by the local warden and slapped with hefty fines!

• One of the easiest ways to find live bait is to buy worms or minnows at the local tackle shop. What if you forget or you're in the backcountry without bait? To find earthworms, uncover large rocks or logs and gently probe the earth underneath with a stick. Use a flashlight and look for them at night sliding through the grass.
First, you must be able to distinguish between a nibble and a bite. This is not always easy to do at first; it comes with time and practice. Imagine your line with your bait or lure at the end. If the fish just toys with it, without putting the whole thing in its mouth, that's a nibble. If you're using a bobber, it will dance up and down a bit, but it won't be pulled under the water. It usually takes one or two nibbles before the fish really tries to eat the bait or lure. Now, that's a bite-which feels like a more serious tug on the line. Usually, a bite pulls the bobber on your line all the way under the water. This is the time to pull the rod back and set the barb of the hook (the jagged part) into the fish's mouth. And timing is everything. If you don't set the hook at this time, it may fall out and the fish will get away. If you try to set the hook when the fish is merely nibbling, you'll just pull away the bait or lure, and possibly scare off the fish.

Just because you've got ultralight gear doesn't mean you have to catch ultralight fish. You can reel in lots of respectable-size fish if you know the secret: setting your drag on the reel. The drag is like a brake that controls the tautness of the line. If you set the drag for maximum tension, no matter how hard the line is pulled, it will not slip off the line spool. If you set the drag for minimum tension, it will slip a little. This is especially important when you're using ultralight gear with line that is only two- or three-pound test. If you set your drag to maximum tension, you risk breaking the line if a fish pulls hard on it. If you set it on minimum, the line will slip a little when the fish pulls, lowering its chance of actually breaking. Set the drag on your line before you begin fishing. When you buy your reel, ask a knowledgeable person at the store how to set the drag on your reel. Learn the joys of giving up a little line- and in return, getting back a fish!

Tip: Fish tend to be more plentiful just prior to rain because the low-pressure system in the atmosphere dislodges food from the bottoms of streams and lakes, letting it rise to the surface. Before it rains, the fish will come.

Even after you've set your drag, it's still not a great idea to reel in the fish right after you've set the hook. If the fish makes a mad dash for it and tries to escape, you still risk breaking your line. The best thing to do is to cut the fish a little slack. Reel in some line, let the line go, and then let it run a little, and then reel it in again. It may take a little longer to land it this way, but your patience will pay off. Learning this technique will permit you to catch fair-size game fish using just your ultralight gear.

Imagine that you are an airline pilot trying to land a plane. You have to land it properly in order for it to be a success. It's the same in fishing. Sadly, no matter how big or beautiful the fish is, unless you pull it to shore, it's still the "one that got away." Here are some helpful hints that should help you get that fish to its dinner engagement (though they'll work whether you choose to fry it or release it).

• Reel in the fish as close as possible to the shore, but be sure to keep it in the water.

• Fish are coated with a protective slime. If you intend to throw the fish back, be sure you don't scrape the slime off; otherwise handling the fish-especially if your hands are dry-can kill it by causing infection.

• Using your left thumb and forefinger, grab the fish by its lower jaw. This will temporarily immobilize the fish and stop it from flopping around. Don't worry about teeth; most of the small game fish you'll be catching don't have them.

• Nets can be useful, but are too bulky for backpackers.

• Remove the hook from the fish by pushing on the shank-the base of the hook near the eye-with small pliers or your hand. Be careful not to cut your fingers on the hook or the sharp edges of the fish's gills. If a fish hook gets stuck in your finger and doesn't come out easily, seek medical attention.

• Never try to land the fish by reeling it up to the top of your rod. You could break the line and may hurt the fish.

• If you decide to keep the fish, put it on your stringer and keep it in the water until you go back to camp. The typical stringer is a piece of cord with a metal tip and a loop at the end that you push carefully under a fish's gills; another model employs a chain with big snaps.

• Be sure you attach your stringer to something solid, or you risk losing your catch.

Freeing Fishy

Sometimes you will land a fish and realize that it's just a baby-only a few ounces-and too tiny to cook. Or perhaps it's a species that is not in season. Or perhaps you just lost your appetite for the big kill. Whatever the reason, you may want to throw it back. Here are some useful tips:

• Try not to wear out the fish by playing with it too much before you land it.

• Leave your fish in the water and never touch it with dry hands.

• Gently remove the hook; squeezing the fish will crush its internal organs.

• If the hook is too hard to remove or the fish has swallowed it, cut the line.

• Release the fish in quiet water. Never actually throw it back, this may hurt it or kill it. If the fish needs help recovering from the shock of being caught, hold it lengthwise and gently move it back and forth in the water to move its gills and help it breathe.

How to Clean the Fish

Here are a few simple steps to cleaning fish to prepare it for cooking:

• First kill the fish by whacking it on the head with a heavy knife or a rock.

• Wrap a piece of linen or paper around the tail of the fish to ensure a good grip.

• If the fish has scales, scratch the inverse side of the scales with a knife to remove them (stroke the blade of a knife from tail to head). After scaling the fish, rinse it with water to remove extraneous scales.

• Take a very sharp knife (the best ones are narrow with a small point at the end) and, starting at the throat, slit the underside of the fish lengthwise; cut all the way along the belly.

• Remove all the internal organs.

• Fillet the fish, or pan-fry it whole.

• Dig a small hole in the ground and bury the fish entrails.

Fish for Dinner

It's easy to cook your fish. Put a little butter or oil in a frying pan. Fry it for just a few minutes on each side. Don't overcook, or your dinner may be ruined. Add salt, pepper, and lemon juice to taste. You might also try adding some garlic. Another way to cook fish is by wrapping it in thick aluminum foil and putting in the campfire for a few minutes with some spices. You can also use the foil as a plate.

Be sure you clean up properly after dinner to avoid attracting animals to your camp.

No matter how good your fishing skills are, it's not a good idea to count your fish before they're caught. Don't plan on catching dinner on a backpacking trip. Instead, plan your meals before you leave-and always bring along enough food with you, including food for one extra day (just in case you get stranded). If you happen to catch a yellow perch, consider it a treat. You can always bring back the pouch of dehydrated goulash and use it on your next trip. If there is an emergency and you do get stranded in the backcountry, a fishing rod is valuable to have.

http://sites.google.com/site/carpfishingguide is a free informational website about carp fishing including choosing your carp fishing tackle, tips on carp care, carp fishing tactics and many more

Bass Fishing: The Most Sought After Fishing Game

If you have even a passing interest in the topic of Bass Fishing, then you should take a look at the following information. This enlightening article presents some of the latest news on the subject of Bass Fishing.

How can you put a limit on learning more? The next section may contain that one little bit of wisdom that changes everything. Let us learn more about Bass Fishing and the basic things you need to learn to lure your fish.

Bass fish is a black fish which is a specie of North American fish. There are various other types of bass fishes like large mouth bass, small mouth bass, Kentucky bass and a lot more.

Bass fishing originates in southern United States of America. This fish was originally for food and later turned out to be a very popular sport. In fact, in 1950's it became the second most sought after game in the states, coming from a humble start. Bass fishing has made a drastic change in the fishing industry with regards to development of some fishing gears form rods to reels, making way to lines to lures. There is also the evolution of electronic boats and modern bass boats. Luckily, this sport brings a lot of money to the state. More than billions upon billions of dollars is being taken form this sport.

Most of the participants in this fishing sport do not treat bass fish as food. They treat this kind of fishing a sport. Usually, they catch fishes and release them in water afterwards. This is called "catch and released". The BASS (Bass Anglers Sportsmen Society) under the National Tournament circuits brought this. There is a huge penalty whenever they catch dead fish. Dead fishes are not counted as a score. The caught fishes are immediately taken for weighing purposes and released back to water. If the fishes were stressed, they are placed in a tank for treatments then released back to water right after.

Largemouth bass fish was introduced across the world by government wildlife department and sports angler. Japan and South Africa are just two among the countries who got active programs of bass fish stockings. In fact, Japan, South Africa and Australia are some of the countries with many participants in fishing tournaments held in United States. Australia has its own fresh water fish called Australian bass fish that is why they have their own fishing tournaments. You cannot find Largemouth bass fish in Australia. Although Largemouth Bass got features similar to Australian Bass fish, they are still considered different fishes.

Let me give you some basic guidelines on how to locate a bass as it is the most important aspect and Anglers should know how to locate bass. This might be the biggest problem you can encounter especially if you are new to the sport. Definitely, learning how to locate a bass is necessary for everybody.

There are many factors to determine if you want to learn more on how to locate bass. These are the following.

* You must learn how to read a map.

* You must also learn how to locate for active bass after the fall of the cold fronts and on early spring.

* You must know how to understand different water depths.

* You must take into consideration that fishing needs clear water.

* You must be aware of the normal temperatures where bass fishes usually dwell.

* You must learn about the seasonal patterns.

* You must learn how to locate structure areas.

* You also have to locate the vegetation areas.

You also need to look for some key elements so you can locate bass. The following are the key elements you need to find:

* You need to look for the vegetation areas

* Take a look at some irregular contours

* Be aware of the shallow water that are close to deep water areas

* Locate the point and point of drops

* Be aware of the different and various type of structures

These are the things you need to learn about Bass Fishing. If you've picked some pointers about Bass Fishing that you can put into action, then by all means, do so. You won't really be able to gain any benefits from your new knowledge if you don't use it. Happy Bass Fishing!

Puneet Singhal is a seasoned bass fisherman who is always on the lookout for the new tricks and techniques to catch more fishes each time he go for fishing.

For more information, related articles on bass fishing please visit: http://www.bassfishing-center.com

Useful Fishing Tips For Hikers

Plastic Bait

There's no getting away from plastics. Where fishing equipment once was fashioned out of wood and other natural materials, molded plastics of every description have found their way into ponds, lakes, and streams. Multicolored, squiggly, wiggly things of every description are being used widely by anglers of every experience level. Some plastic lures are even coated with scented fish attractants-a kind of fishy perfume, if you will-that, combined with all kinds of noise-making bobbles, make for a lure that screams to be eaten!

The most common plastic lure is shaped like a worm, round at the head with a flat tail that causes the lure to swish and sashay as it is reeled in. "Starter" worms are six inches long and are shaded purple. They are designed to have a hook pushed through them in much the same manner as a real worm, but doing this with a plastic worm won't remind you of the meathook scenes in The Texas Chainsaw Massacre. When going this route, you'll need to use a special hook meant for use with plastic worms; such hooks won't do live worms. Feed some monofilament fishing line through the hook eye and tie a standard Trilene knot on the hook. (Don't use a swivel snap when rigging a plastic worm.) Push the hook through the worm to conceal the hook eye and knot in the worm's head. The hook should also be somewhat concealed in the body of the worm. Since plastic worms used in this configuration are quite light, they won't cast as far as more heavily weighted lines, and their effectiveness is related to the angler's willingness to play the worm in the water, gently jerking the lure every so often as a tease to the fish. For a more sincere cast, attach some weight to the line with split shot squeezed on to the line about a foot above the worm. Bring the worm in slowly.

Plastic lures also come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. So, besides standard plastic worms, you might want to try experimenting with plastic reproductions of newts, frogs, minnows, crayfish, eels, and bugs to see what works for you. But at the end of the day, it's not the jig but the jigger who carries the day by bringing back a fish or two to fry up at the campsite.

Hooking

Like most things that rely on tradition for explanation, fish-hook sizes are classified according to a system seemingly based on the illogical thoughts of a confused drunkard. To the novice, the numbers relating to fish hooks bear no relation their sizes whatsoever. In fact, there is some method to fish-hook madness: Assuming that "1" represents the average size hook, with hooks getting smaller as they go up in numbers (in multiples of two)-say 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, with a size-2 hook being bigger than a size-10 hook, for instance.

Hooks that are bigger than a size-1 hook are expressed with a number and a zero on each side of a slash (1/0, 2/0, 3/0, 4/0). Notice here that hook sizes are numbered sequentially and can include ascending numbers that aren't multiples of 2. "Standard" hook sizes used with worms and other bait are usually sized at 2, 4, 6, and 8. Smaller hooks are used to catch smaller fish, and bigger hooks, larger fish. "Treble" hooks (three points) that you see on artificial lures follow the same numbering system.

Catching

Catching a fish is a lot like playing a good game of poker. You can't change the cards you're dealt, but you can change the way you play them. Luck is involved, but skill is just as important.

There are days when the fish just aren't biting. Or times when you're fishing in one place, but the fish are off somewhere else. But you can really increase your odds of catching a fish if you know what you're doing.

Some of the best times to fish from shore are early in the morning and at dusk. In the middle of the afternoon, on a hot sunny day, you'll have a better chance of finding fish in deeper water-it's where they go to cool off! If you are fishing in a stream, for example, this may be a good time for you to look for them in deeper pools.

The first thing you need to know is what types of fish can be found in the wildlife area you will be exploring. Look through some of the brochures on the region; call or write to the wildlife department in the area (or the local outfitter). Ask about the best time of year to fish, where to find the hot spots in the area, and the best time of day to go. Especially important is to find out when the legal fishing season for a specific species of fish begins and ends, where you can buy your fishing license, and how much it will cost. If you're fishing in a national park, you can usually buy a national park fishing license that enables you to fish throughout the park for a limited period.

There are fish you won't be able to catch with your ultralight gear, such as salmon or muskellunge-some weigh as much as a small child. On the other hand, perch, rock bass, trout, smallmouth bass, walleye, and even small pike are fair game. They weigh just a few pounds each, and all are worth their weight in dinner. These fish can all be snared with your ultralight rod and reel and your film container's-worth of tackle.

Once you know which types of fish are in the area, you can narrow down the tackle you need to bring on your trip. Ask your local sporting-goods store to help you select the right lures for the fish you'll be trying to catch. Not all fish respond to live bait; some respond to nothing else. Trout are one of the tastiest and most beautiful fish out there, but also the fussiest. They usually respond just to flies, but when they are hungry enough have been known to chase a worm or a light lure. Some fly-fishing purists may cringe at the thought, but I have caught many brown trout from shore using just a hook, a weight, and a small worm. Besides the fish pictured previously, you may encounter bluegill, sunfish, and crappie in many lakes. There are many varieties of bass, so the picture here may not match what you catch.

Tip

You need to get a fishing license before you can start fishing. These licenses can usually be purchased at local bait shops, grocery stores, or national park offices. The license limits the species you can fish for and the seasons you can fish for them. Sometimes there are limits on how many fish of a particular type you're allowed to take out of the water.

Different types of fish live in different habitats; most have their preferences. Some live in lakes, others prefer rivers and streams. Trout, one of the most desirable fish to catch, can be found in all three. River fishing can be difficult for the beginner. It usually involves wading in the river-and often the water is moving so rapidly that it's hard to tell whether the fish are biting. Beginners may find lake and stream fishing easier.

When fishing in streams, look for potentially deep pools where the fish may be resting. I've found that when fishing in a lake from the shore, it can be a good idea to put your hook near a shady spot-underneath some low-hanging branches or near some big rocks. This can be especially effective on a hot sunny day. Just be careful not to snag your line on a rock or a tree-that's a great way to lose your tackle!

http://sites.google.com/site/carpfishingguide is a free informational website about carp fishing including choosing your carp fishing tackle, tips on carp care, carp fishing tactics and many more

What You Need to Know About Deep Fishing

Deep fishing can be for sport or commercial means. It is the practice of fishing in deep water to catch fish that live or feed near the bottom. These bottom fish get high prices at market that make them very desirable to fishermen. Deep fishing is hard and strenuous. The equipment used is heavy and more complex than that of regular fishing. There are three basic ways of deep fishing - anchoring and chumming, bottom trolling and trawling. Each way uses a different approach and take certain special skill.

The equipment used to deep fish is basically the same as other fishing equipment. In deep fishing, though, the equipment has to be suited to fishing in the depths of the water. The line need to be stronger because the fish are stronger and larger. Instead of a pole, a hand reel is used. The hand reel is attached to the boat and reels in the line. The set up of deep fishing equipment starts with the mainline. The main line attaches to the hand reel and needs to be long enough to go the required depth. Attached to the mainline is the terminal rig. The terminal rig holds smaller line, called trace lines. These trace lines hold the hooks and bait. Some fisherman also attach a chum bucket to the terminal rig. A chum bucker contains ground up bait, called chum. Periodically this chum is released to attract fish. On the bottom of the line is the sinker. The sinker must be heavy enough to pull the line to the bottom. The most important part of deep fishing is the bait. It should be fresh and well attached to the hook. Try double-hooking (attaching the bait through two points with the hook) to ensure it doesn't fall off. Because you are working at great depths, you need to make sure your bait will work good. All of this equipment will ensure you have a nice deep fishing experience.

The three basic types of deep fishing each use a certain method to attract to fish or catch the fish. Anchoring and chumming is a type of deep fishing that relies heavily on the use of a chum bucket. The chum bucket is the main source of bait. The fisherman anchors in one spot and then uses the periodic release of chum to catch fish. Bottom trolling uses a cannon ball as its tactic. The cannon ball is drug around the bottom where it stirs up mud and causes noise. This stirs up the fish, provoking them to bite the bait. Trawling is used to catch many fish at once. It involves a net with weights and wheels attached to it. This net rolls along the bottom and scoops up fish. Each type has its good points and bad points, but those are mainly based upon the fisherman's goals. The method you chose to use for deep fishing is up to you.

Deep fishing takes skill and some preparation. Fishing at the bottom comes with its own problems. Fisherman do not want to keep pulling up their line to check bait or move to a different location. Planning the type of deep fishing is also important so you are prepared with the correct equipment. A little planning and patience will make for a good deep fishing experience.

Jay Moncliff is the founder of http://www.fishing-center.info a website specialized on Fishing, resources and articles. This site provides updated information on Fishing. For more info visit his site: Fishing

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Carp Fishing Bait Secrets Of Paste And Boilie Recipes!

Everyone wants to know what the best way to make incredibly effective baits is. There is lots of advice out there but to really focus on making baits that out-fish the best readymade baits is a skill that even bait making beginners can develop with the right advanced knowledge. Here are a few more revealing select expert tips on recipes and (and on beating readymade baits) to get you seriously catching far more fish!

The major mistake most anglers make when thinking about making their own unique homemade baits is this: they start out thinking about ingredients first! You might think this sounds strange. Why is it wrong to think about ingredients first when after all you are going to use ingredients to make your bait? The answer is that you immediately lose the maximum potential for your baits to be most successful! Think about fishing bait like this and you will be massively more successful; the problem provides the solution! Never think about ingredients first! Always think first about fish when making bait and you guarantee maximum most consistent success.

Now think about fish and how they operate internally and externally in context of their aquatic environment. In other words, deliberately exploit all that they use to avoid getting hooked in your unique, favour by exploiting these systems, sensitivities and behaviours. You achieve this by using the very specific leverage of carefully chosen bait substances chosen exactly due to their impacts you desire to have on fish internally and externally, and of course on water, the medium they will be detected within!

Most bait makers seem to over look that bait is best in solution, not in hard balls sitting on the bottom. In fact carp do not even spend the majority of their time on the bottom anyway. They travel off the bottom and exploit foods and temperature changes in an array of changing natural rhythms and changing conditions including those set by influence of sun and moon electromagnetic changes and so on that affect patterns in things like timings of natural hatches of mayflies and caddis flies, timings of most abundant blooming of bloodworms, timings of most abundant concentrations of zooplankton and algae in different water layers during night time and in certain current streams in a lake on certain days etc.

In this case you are pitting your wits against an ever evolving dynamically changing creature that is not static, and always adapting to new opportunities and threats in its environment, just as we humans are each and every day. You need to relate your bait design to the fish first. Sure fish constantly consume hard shelled crustacean and mollusks such as fresh water shrimp, a range of snails, mussels, and even crayfish in many waters today. It might not seem that much of a coincidence as this is totally logical, but when actually fishing you will get far more bites when fishing where fish feed naturally where their natural food is located.

I hope you can see the link here that if you fish on a bloodworm bed being actively harvested by the biggest fish in your lake then you are going to have far more chance of catching those fish compared to not fishing where the fish are most active! But you can miss out on a big part of the more hidden success formula here. Sure you catch fish when are fishing actually on fish, that much is obvious.

But in this case for instance you are on fishing on top of fish that are not only actively regularly feeding in a location, but are being conditioned through exposure to dissolved substances from the bloodworm and also from vibrations from bloodworm wriggling movements as they move and feed themselves.

Exposure to dissolved bloodworm excretions affects receptors in fish that influences their adaptation so that fish are even more sensitive to this form of food than usual. You can say that bloodworm have become far more palatable to carp. Palatability is a very major part of bait design as it not only means fish will feed and consume your baits, but when optimised for palatability then fish will be induced to feed repeatedly and give you maximum chances of hooking fish!

Being able to become sensitized to a food item is a natural adaptation fish have evolved. Obviously this makes detecting bloodworm and other foods much easier and far more energy efficient. Consider that carp can spend lots of time with their heads buried in black thick silk seeking out bloodworm in summer time. Being far more sensitized to the bloodworm secretions etc makes carp far more able to find extremely nutritious food at least energy cost. If a carp did not sensitise more to a particular food item it could well waste more energy than it would actually derive from finding and digesting it and this is certainly not a situation that will promote chances of survival!

The fact that human receptors sensitise to refined sugar because such sugar satisfies the bodys requirement for instance energy is something to bear in mind. It is not that sugar even stands out as so many substances are addictive in so-called foods today. If I suggest sugar is addictive you would maybe not believe me until I say that the food industry uses it as much as possible because it is addictive and alters the sensitivity of your receptors - even passing these changes onto to your grandchildren through your genes!

Fishing on a prime bloodworm bed means you are exploiting a naturally stimulating aquatic situation that is packed with concentrated foods and stimuli that hold fish and make them feed repeatedly. But the vital key here is that you are exploiting naturally heightened fish sensitivities and natural behaviour patterns and modes of feeding that those related food substances induce.

Among many things we can use baits to best do in order to catch fish is to actually replicate the influence of natural foods upon carp senses. It is all about seeing the bigger picture. We can sensitise fish to our own unique baits in certain ways that make them super potent, but this is simply one angle of attack and this is why it is so easy to out-fish any established readymade bait using your own optimised homemade baits. I mention optimised because heated baits of any form are not optimised. I can make homemade baits without any heating that last as long as I design those to last, from 3 hours to over 20 hours immersion.

I want my baits to be in solution not sitting as hard objects on the bottom. If my baits are hard then they soften but retain a flexible practicable matrix which is constantly open and releasing soluble bait materials. This mean that after 20 hours or even 3 hours if designed so, my hook baits will be smaller upon reeling in - and that is totally OK! Of course my free baits can be designed to break down in whatever time span to become sediment and release the maximum levels of soluble substances. Bait is working best actively breaking down. The most under-optimised baits just sit for hours as whole baits leaching a tiny fraction of components outwards.

Boiled or other heat-coagulated baits are very under-optimised baits indeed! They are a limited compromise to practicality and expectations of the masses who mistakenly think intact baits need to be some kind of conventional solid object attached to a hook - that is all! Think out of the box. Think about natural food items and find softness totally dominates even within crushable shells and carapaces!

So many anglers have a warped group conditioned mindset that makes them think that the ideal carp bait is a round ball or a soft or hard pellet sitting on the bottom or wafting in the water. But in fact the best bait is one that is actually actively dissolving and becoming solution. This dissolving produces the highest maximised concentrations of stimuli in the water that maintain fish physiology in excited states for repeated feeding and making them most vulnerable to being hooked on hook baits!

So think about the fact that carp habitually check out areas of their water for food opportunities and when food is in enough abundance to make feeding on it viable in terms of basic energy needs versus energy costs they will feed most enthusiastically. Ground baits and spod mixes are a reasonable line of attack, and of course using particle baits, crushed particles and crushed boilies and crushed pellets and tiny pellets etc are all part of the way towards keeping fish in a place and feeding. However the point is that you want fish constantly excited, but not fed!

Far too many anglers think baits need to be food, (as in to feed them,) but NO! Exploit sensitivities to substances found in their natural foods sure, but the primary purpose of bait is to stimulate feeding to maximum influence over fish behaviours in order to hook fish most efficiently! If you want to feed fish go start a fish farm and grow fish for profit and maximum weight gains! The 2 concepts of stimulating fish to maximum effect in order to hook them, and making fish food that is best digested for maximum biological conversion into fish, are totally different! I want to catch fish best - not feed them!

You have more chance of catching a carp fishing over 100 baits than 20,000. We used very high protein milk protein baits in low volumes during the seventies and eighties for one reason because they were effective like that, but also you simply did not need large volumes to induce great feeding especially when exploiting their soluble characteristics! It was only when fish meal baits became popularised so much and used as big beds of baits that so many anglers jumped onto the more is more mindset!

In fact the little and often approach is most usually the best way as any leading match man will advise, and the regular spodding of very very soluble bait for example is a good way though nothing new. This was a better method of bait delivery than using catapults at any range, and the Gardener bait rocket for example has been around for decades and I really enjoyed its benefits fishing over crushed extremely open granular bird food and pig food based type homemade baits in the eighties.

You want fish to be as excited and as stimulated as possible but not fed, so they will have most reason to try your hook baits multiple times. I say this as fish can be incredibly sensitive to bait density compared to water, among many other characteristics, and of course it is no surprise the most carefully balanced rig and bait can be beaten by very wary carp time and time again. However, when carp are stimulated to the degree that caution is overcome, well you see my point. This is for me the entire point of using fishing baits and designing baits optimised to actually achieve this situation. No whole baits do this satisfactorily and certainly no whole machine-formed readymade boilies can achieve this particularly if they last any longer than 3 hours without actively dissolving.

Of course anglers want to know that their baits are intact and still on when they reel in after perhaps a night of fishing where fish have been naturally feeding well. But how many times do anglers reel in after such a night, using readymade baits, not having had much success? Frankly it amazes me how many anglers are still in the mindset of using whole baits as free baits when it is so massively obvious that fish have had thousands of hours of practice avoiding that bait format and permutations of rigs utilizing that approach.

Most ideally you need to be making homemade baits that are nothing like any readymade popular baits in any way that fish can negatively associate with at all!

You can make then massively more stimulating by not only increasing levels of the most stimulating soluble substances within them, but totally changing the bait format entirely. I will not go into that here, but all I can say is that if you do this, then anglers fishing with readymade baits next to you will be scratching their heads wondering what on earth you are doing that is getting results when they are struggling to get bites - because you can make baits that sensitise fish to your homemade bait, which means other competing baits are noticed much less! This is providing that you do things to them that optimise them for solubility and diffusion.

Think about the most used bait format and avoid it at all costs (i.e. smooth surfaced rounded, pellet or barrel shaped whole hard baits.) Avoid the word boilies and transform your thinking into one of think fish first (and not bait or recipes or bait ingredients first!)

When all the lazy anglers with limited mindsets say to me give me a recipe I just laugh because they have missed what really matters by thousands of miles!

When you think about the relative density of natural food items carp seek out you will notice how much water content is involved and how much soluble substances these foods contain. This thought is a very revealing one I assure you! Do not aim to replicate a snail by making hard baits that can be made by machine. Aim instead to maximise the levels of natural stimuli in baits that are not hard but instead are resilient but soft, maybe even spiky and sharp not smooth, flexible, and even bend and give to pressure from lips of cautiously investigating carp. OK, There is so much more to all this but I will keep this short!

By erasing the word and meaning of the word boilie or even hard or solid pellet out of your fishing mindset, and replacing it with thoughts about how natural food is packed with concentrations of substances carp have evolved to be most sensitive to, then you can make baits than will be natural, move most naturally, not resemble commercial baits, and will out-fish readymade baits with ease! Revealed in my unique readymade bait and homemade bait carp and catfish bait secrets ebooks is far more powerful information look up my unique website (Baitbigfish) and see my biography below for details of my ebooks deals right now!

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Choosing the Perfect Sea Fishing Rods - 5 Essential Tips

Shopping for sea fishing rods can seem daunting if you have little experience with sea fishing, or have only previously fished in fresh water.

Follow my simple pointers below and you'll be on your way to catching bigger sea fish with the least effort.

Here are 5 essential things to consider while researching to buy sea fishing rods:

1. Think about where you're going to be fishing.

Will you be mostly fishing from the ocean shore? Will you primarily be deep sea fishing?

Think about this carefully. Your fishing destination determines the types of fish you intend to catch and the techniques you'll use.

If you've only fished in freshwater before now, you'll certainly need a stronger rod for fishing in the sea. Sea fish such as marlin and shark are stronger than fish that live in rivers, lakes, or even estuaries.

Fishing for, say, sea bass or marlin, requires a stronger rod that can land heavier fish, whereas you could get away with a lighter rod for fish like grouper, flounder or snapper.

2. Consider the material your new rod will be made from.

Graphite or fibreglass are generally good choices for sea fishing rods.

Both materials are strong and light. They aren't affected by the salt in sea water and so resist corrosion, rust, brittleness.

Graphite isn't very flexible but it is strong and relatively light.

You've maybe fished with graphite rods before, but those made for fishing in the sea are longer, wider and denser.

An alternative material is fiberglass. Fiberglass sea fishing rods are much more flexible than graphite which makes it easier to fight stronger fish for a longer period of time without getting tired.

The only compromise with fiberglass rods are that they generally don't last as long as graphite. For me, that's an acceptable compromise, and my personal favorites are fiberglass rods.

3. Consider the tackle you're going to use with your rod.

No type of fishing rod is worth a dime without tackle, and saltwater fishing rods are no exception. Certain rods work well with certain kinds of tackle, and certain types of tackle work well with certain kinds of fishing rods.

The tackle you require will be greatly determined by where you're fishing, what fish you'll be catching and what techniques you'll be using.

4. Take account of the fishing techniques you'll be using.

Different fishing techniques are required in different fish habitats for catching different fish. Deep drop? shallow drop? bottom techniques?

Think carefully about the techniques you'll likely be using before buying your rod.

5. Do your research.

The vast array of styles, brands, materials and accessories available is staggering.

My advice: don't skimp on your research.

Use the internet to browse the available range. Check out online fishing stores to find out what you can get for your budget.

Buy magazines and read the advice and reviews. I spotted 4 magazines dedicated to saltwater fishing in my local store alone yesterday.

And, if you have the chance, talk to experienced fishermen (or women). You'll receive no better advice than from people who are experts with sea fishing rods.

Take your time to fully research your options before you buy, with my simple pointers in mind.

Good luck researching and buying sea fishing rods!

Find out more about why quality sea fishing rods are the most vital piece of equipment in your sea fishing arsenal on Lori Rocha's Sea Fishing Rods blog.

The Benefits of Kayak Bass Fishing

If you like to fish for large-mouth bass then you will love kayak bass fishing. One of the best things about kayak fishing is that it can be whatever you want it to be: an afternoon on the lake with a bag of rubber worms, a weekend fishing trip with the family, or an extreme multi-state kayak fishing adventure.

Why use a kayak to pursue and catch your favorite game fish?

1. Kayaks are stealthy & can get you very close to fish and the structure that they inhabit.

2. Kayaks are very portable & can be transported by car, van, or SUV - they can even be rolled on special kayak carts.

3. Kayaks can access remote fishing locations that are too shallow for power boats and too muddy for wade fishermen.

4. Kayaks are relatively inexpensive & and will last many "maintenance free" years.

5. Kayaks do not require a registration or an operator's license (this is true in most states).

6. Kayaking/Kayak Fishing is an excellent form of low impact exercise.

7. Kayaking/Kayak Fishing is a great family & social activity.

8. Kayaks are environmentally friendly - they do not require gas or oil.

9. Kayak Fishing is fun! (just add water).

Typical On the Water Scenarios

Spring

It is spring time just after ice-out and the bass are soaking up the afternoon sun in warm shallow coves and creek arms on the Northwest side of your favorite lake. The bottom substrate of these fish holding areas is mud and muck and unfit for wade fishing and your powerboat is too big and too noisy to sneak up on bass in 2 feet of water. What do you do?

1. You launch your kayak and quietly paddle into the fish holding coves. If you see carp milling about or turtles basking then you are in the right place.

2. You pick up your favorite rod on which you have tied a jig and pork trailer, a small profile spinner bait, or a small shallow diving crank-bait.

3. You cast your lures in and around any lily pads, weed growth, logs, or dark looking depressions.

4. You hook up with a big fat pre-spawn large-mouth.

Summer

It is summer time and the bass or either holding tight to shoreline cover, docks, and boat houses or they are hunkered down deep in the thickest greenest weed beds. What are your options.

1. You can fish the shoreline by skipping rubber worms into and under cover. You'll catch many fish this way, but not always the biggest ones.

2. You can position your kayak close to shore and makes parallel casts with crank-baits, spinners, etc being certain to focus your attention on the edge of the drop off to deeper water. Active fish that are cruising the inside of weed edges or drop offs will give you plenty of action.

3. You can cast heavier spinner baits or jig and worm combos and work the outside edge of the weed beds. Bass and other game fish hide in the weeds so that they can ambush bait fish that swim by. The best outside weed edges are near steep drop offs and secondary submerged points.

4.You can wait until after dark and work the shallows paying special attention to the mouths of feeder creeks, outflows, submerged humps, and points.

5. You can skip the lake altogether and try one of your local rivers. Most rivers are under fished compared to lakes and most trout fisherman have given up on the rivers by summer time so you will more than likely have the river to yourself. If the current is slow enough you can launch your kayak and exit from the same spot eliminating the need for two vehicles. If the current is too quick to paddle against, be sure to plan your trip carefully so you know where to take out at the end of the day. Try casting spinner baits, rubber worms, or jigs into shoreline cover or work mid river rocks and weed patches with tube jigs, spinners, or small crank-baits. Be sure to pay special attention to seams, eddies, drop offs, and creek mouths. If you get tired of sitting in the kayak drag it onto the shore and wade fish a while, you can work your way down stream using the kayak as a transport to your next wading spot.

Fall

It is fall (September/October) and bass are feeding heavily in preparation for the cold water season. Some fish are suspending on drop offs or over deep water and some are cruising the remaining weed beds looking for a meal. What are your options?

1. You want to be fishing early afternoons until dark, the water will be warmest this time of day and the air temperature will be more comfortable too. You may even be able to sneak out of work early enough to get in a few good hours of fishing before nightfall.

2. You can work buzz-baits, weedless spoons, rubber worms, jigs, or spinner-baits over remaining weed beds, paying special attention to weed beds around the mouths of feeder creeks and outflows. Also look for lay-downs, submerged logs, boulders, and brush piles.

3. You can work deep points and drop offs with jigs, drop-shot rigs, deep diving crank-baits, or jigging spoons. Once you find the depth the fish seem to be holding at repeat the pattern on the other points and drop offs.

4. You can troll deep diving plugs just over suspending fish, drift fish with a float and fly set up, or live line a bait-fish in the strike zone.

Winter

It is winter time. If you live in the south put on a sweater and go fishing. Be glad you are not shoveling snow or scraping ice off of your line guides. If you live up north, pack up your kayak and fishing gear and go visit one of your friends down south. If you don't have a friend down south FIND ONE on the Kayak Fishing Stuff Forum paying special attention to the Florida, Georgia, Carolina, and Louisiana forums.

So, be sure to give kayak bass fishing a try. It will change your life, improve your catch ratio, and you will be doing your part to make the world around you a better place.

Craig Sheppard is an experienced kayak angler, outdoors enthusiast, and the General Manager of Kayak Fishing Stuff. To learn more about kayak fishing and fishing kayaks visit: http://www.kayakfishingstuff.com

Kayak Fishing Stuff has been serving the kayak fishing community since 2001. If you fish from a kayak or have been thinking about starting this is the place. At KFS you will find brand name kayaks, quality kayak fishing gear, and a tremendous amount of free kayak fishing information.

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Close to home and no skunks fishing!

Some of the greatest fishing in the world, is available within a mile or two away any where in the US! Many anglers miss out because their gear is too big and not sensitive enough to show them bites. Fish feed in a delicate fashion 90% of the time. In order to catch them, you need to change your ways. If you do, you can be rewarded with 500 fish in 4 hours- my record is 512.

To get in on this action, you will need a few items and, you will need to get rid of a
few old items you may be used to. It might help the reader to know that until the
Spring of 2000, I was a big game fisherman with a box full of lures and plenty of
spinning gear as my main tools for catching fish. Everything changed about the way
I fish, especially the fact that I actually caught fish, every time out. I still have not
been "skunked" since changing my ways. By the way, it's a good thing we don't
smell like a skunk when we don't catch anything as a group of anglers, otherwise
our families would know for sure how miserable a fishing day we had. Getting
"skunked" (catching no fish) stinks!

There is no need to be skunked, if you follow a couple of fishing basics and
transform your gear for local waters (instead of our tackle being based on Florida
bass or Kentucky crappie or Wisconsin Muskie. Even the "ultra light" spinning gear
we are accustomed to using as a standard for local fishing is cutting down on our
catches! Most anglers in the US have never truly fished "ultra" light. Years ago I
changed my gear and I caught sacks full of fish all summer and for the first time in
my fishing career, caught fish into very late fall! I never knew that fish would feed in
late November and early December on open water!

I will give you two examples of having a blast catching fish vs. casting at them.

At a 4th of July picnic on a small pond in suburban Chicago, I was fishing with my
30 foot pole while a pack of kids nearby were busy throwing a bass jig connected
to a 2.5 inch bobber (way too big) at a weed bed extending 4 ft. out into the lake
from the edge. Their problem was simple. They couldn't cast well with the short
"kids" rod and closed face reels. Their giant bobber was not giving them any
indication of bites and the bass jig was too big to fit in any of the nearby fish's
mouths. Their 10 lb. line was like a cable being seen by even the aggressive fish in
the area approaching this rig (read- avoiding). When the rig was actually wet,
because these kids could not get the thing into the water near the fish because of
tangles and weeds on the jig head, it was not catching fish. Their "casts" couldn't
get the lure/giant bobber combo past the 6-foot wide weedy edge.

I fixed that problem by putting down my pole and setting up my shortest 7 ft.
graphite telescopic "pole" with a delicate float (the size of an pencil eraser) with 1.5
lb. line leader attached to a siz #14 hook and baited it with a tiny grub. I handed the
pole to the first kid and she caught a chubby blue gill within 5 seconds. With this
non-mechanized fishing pole there was nothing to getting the bait just 6 feet out,
past the weed bed. The kids could easily put the bait in front of the fish. As for the
fish, they could easily pull under the tiny natural bait with the small hook and the
float, which was about 1/30th the size of the bobber. The sensitive rig picked up on
the fish sucking in the tiny bait immediately so the kids could react.

Sure, I had to stop fishing for a while, but I had a blast with this pack of 6 kids. My
newly adopted friends were out-fishing the guys with spinning gear working around
the pond 40:1 !

The reason most kids don't catch is those short little "kid's" rods. Kids rods come
with the Mouse on the box, wrapped in plastic as one unit and are way too short.
The closed face reels are not bad, but the short rods require a giant 55-gallon drum
bobber which are often sold with these kits. Every angler in America should own and
use a cane pole to fish with! A pole with no reel!

On another day that summer, with nothing more than the cane pole, I won the 1st
day of the U.S. Open with a top weight of 19.75 lb. of blue gill caught in 4 hours.
The answer to this victory was the simplicity of my rig and the size of my line using
a tiny hook. By using this cane pole (really composed of graphite) I was able to fish
quickly for blue gill that were in front of me. The conditions that day had them
feeding in past the first break of the shoreline and were only 8 inches of water. My
rig allowed me to get the bait out to the fish easily, accurately and quickly. Most of
the other anglers in the match were fishing much farther out. My neighbor had a 60
foot pole!!! He was 58 feet past the fish with his expensive gear and I crushed his
weight by 83% using little more than what Huck Finn used -- a cane pole. Some
competitors were even casting far out into the lake some 70 yards away. On this
day, AS MOST DAYS IN OUR LOCAL LAKES, the plentiful smaller fish caught in great
number, will offer you success as an angler.

I would brag even more about that U.S. Open, but my teacher Hall of Fame Angler-
Mick Thill, came from behind and crushed me in day 2 to win the tournament
overall, I finished 2nd.

Here are details on setting up to fish for most every fish in your local ponds. Follow
these (8) steps and you will have a pan fish blast of your own.

1. Consult local bait store owner.

They will give you great information on local ponds and you should be able to buy
some floats, and the rest of your gear below. While not every store owner is great
for information, most can get you to good fishing spots. To start,find waters with
panfish. Panfish are abundant and for the most part active. This will provide you
with a chance to catch fish.

2. Throw out your bobbers and purchase a couple small floats.

Bobbers are no good. Red and white are the worst. Throw them out or save them as
museum pieces. America is about to find out what the rest of the world has known
for 2,000 years. Floats catch fish. Even if you must cast larger float, a properly
balanced float will crush a round bobber every day. Slip bobbers are not as good as
floats either. This is because the line comes out the top in a slip float and catches
wind, current messing up the presentation.

3. Get some good fishing line

6 lb. test is overkill for pond fishing. Use 4 lb. with an even lighter 4 - 6" leader line
to the hook. If a fish feels the line, they are gone. If the fish sees the line, they are
gone. Your leader should be 2 lb.!
Fish feed by sucking their feed in with water. If the line is heavy, it gets sucked in
slower. Most of the time, heavy line is just spit back out. Fish can spit a poor
presentation out faster than you can see your float move up on the surface! With
heavy line, you can miss hundreds of fish bites each time out!! In the World
Championships- I fished with line that is 1/8th the thickness of U.S. 2 lb. line!

4. Get some small, SMALL hooks

Size #12 should be one of the biggest hooks you ever use! If the majority of you
checked your tackle box, I am sure that some 90% of you don't own a hook this
small! A big hook will kill your fishing! Kill it. Take a look at the nail on your pinky
finger. That is about as long as your hook should be or smaller. (Ask your bait store
owner or check out mickthill.com for these hooks) MOST MAJOR CHAINS DO NOT
CARRY THESE HOOKS. Some aren't interested in you catching fish, just buying stuff.
They are quite happy selling a bunch of giant bass hooks, because that is what you
have been buying!!! As we ask for proper equipment, the stores will change and
offer us great selection. You may find these hooks in fly fishing sections of big
stores but you can ask your local dealer to special order them. Size #14 or #16
hooks are perfect. If you are wondering, I have landed a 9 lb. walleye on a size #14
hook with small leech.

5. Get some small bait

Again, the thumbnail on your pinky finger is probably the biggest bait you should
use. There are times the fish only want 1 maggot (spikes) on a tiny #16 hook. Even
the big gills will not take 2 or 3 spikes as readily as they would 1 tiny piece of bait,
this is especially true in early Spring, late Fall and after cold rains. Same would go
for worms. Sometimes using a tiny cut piece will give you success. Only the fish will
tell you. Lastly- big fish eat small bait! I have caught 15 lb. fish on a piece of crawler
the size of my small fingernail.

6. Get a cane pole or telescopic pole

I have landed a 3.5 lb. fish so far on the cane pole with 2 lb. line. We call them
"whips" and some call them crappie poles. I plan on landing bigger fish than that,
but the greatest number of fish are best caught in our local ponds using a whip and
tiny delicate floats with small baits. The whip will deliver the bait out to the exact
spot you need to lower your bait. This could be a drop-off, rock edge, gravel edge
or weed edge. You can hit the exact spot every time! No missed casts. No birds
nests. Once you find the fish, you can put the bait back in with the whip in the spot
where the fish are. Whips vary in length from 6 ft. to 25 feet (longer if you find pro
versions).

7. Balance Your Setup

Good shot is essential to this setup. The bite indicator (float you use) should be the
smallest you can find. Take your line, rig this float up and then using a bucket of
water to add split shot below the rig until your float is nearly sunk. It should be 95%
below the water if you have the right amount of shot on it. 75% of that shot goes
right under the float. Take a few small shot and this will go close to the hook. The
best shot is Anchor brand split shot! This is premium splitshot that will stay on the
line better and not slide around on you. It also tangles much less than the brand
with the wings on it- round shot is best.
Correctly balance your tiny float on thin line with a small hook and you will have
created a very efficient fish-catching machine! When your bait is on the hook, float
in the water- the bait should sink the float a little. When the rig is properly balanced
with bait on it- the slightest movement will show above water for you to see. If you
have too much float tip sticking up- you will not see the bites!

8. Catch (and release) bags full of fish

You will need a keep net for the water if you want to have some fun. Seeing how
many you can catch is all the fun. There is nothing like pulling a bag with 100 fish
out to show people what fishing is all about. If you want to fish in a local club
competition, the net is also required to keep the fish you catch for weight of your
total catch. Keeping some medium sized fish and returning the largest fish is the
way to improve your lake. If you take all the big fish, they won't be in there next
time you go fishing. If you take the medium sized fish, the bigger fish will get even
bigger! It is essential that you release large fish to keep the bloodlines breeding and
ensure future fishing on your lake!

9. Teach a kid to fish and take them fishing

With a cane pole and the basics, kids can have a blast! If we don't take our kids
fishing, and above all, show them a good time, our sport will fade. Improving our
sport brings better fishing programs, cleaner local waters and education on
preserving our environment for kids. We need kids to care about their local world
and taking them fishing for bluegills is the absolute best way to show them a good
time. Incidentally, there is nothing wrong with catfish, golden roach shiners,
bullheads, carp or bass as any fish gives the kids just as much fun. Any fish they
catch will be a blast on a whip.

Who knows, you might even get hooked on pole fishing. I did.

As an angler, is our time best spent casting all day, or catching fish? Certain
situations will require spinning gear, a very long rod and casting, but for the
greatest number of situations in our local ponds and lakes the reel-less pole will
outperform casting gear sometimes by more than 200% and up. I mean, take a look
across the pond at spin casters sitting fishless and you destroying them with a pole-
that is the goal! Or should I say whipping them!

Angler Magazine Writer- John Wilkins
www.MidwestAngler.com
john@midwestangler.com

John Wilkins has fished on the US Fishing Team competing at the highest levels of fishing in Europe, Canada, China & the United States. He has fished in 2 World Championships and has educated anglers on the basics of fishing urban waters. His teacher is angling legend and Hall of Famer Mick Thill. John's top catch is 512 fish in a 4-hour competition and top finish is second in the US Open Championships in 2000.

Visit http://www.midwestangler.com for more tips & info. as well as a complete listing of US Fishing Clubs- the best place to learn is in a club.

Fishing on an Alaska Cruise

Every year thousands of visitors come to Alaska cruise ship. And many of these visitors want to find out Alaska varied fishing possibilities. Due to the popularity of fishing in Alaska, excursions through the cruise lines at several of the stations are fishing on Alaskan routes. Find out, the advantages of a fishing trip through your cruise line and whether the right option for you is you.

What are the cruise lines?

Packaged tours

If you book a trip through the cruise line , is almost every aspect of the tour for you. Transportation to the area in Alaska, where you fishing, your fishing equipment (such as bait, rods and waders flying,), a fishing guide , fishing are statement and sometimes even a meal, are all contained within the fishing excursion. After travel saves all the elements of your fishing you pre-arranged a lot of time and effort.

3 to 6 hour tours

The cruise line fishing excursions are typically 3 or 6 hours. This time contains your transportation to the area where you fishing and any instruction that will be given by the Guide. Depending on the size of your group, you need to only about an hour of "real" fishing time. But one of the best things about taking a cruise line trip is that if your tour is late return for whatever reason, the cruise ship will wait until you again before leaving.

Experienced guides

Is because the cruise line has already been selected and approved your fishing guide , you can be sure that your guide well qualified Angel to lead-Trips in Alaska. Also, if the competition for cruise tour operators is high, the fishing guides elected a higher level of expertise have.

What you should know

You can bring not your fish on board.

If you have dreams of eating salmon, you caught, allowed in the dining room of cruise ship you bring not your fresh catch on Board of the cruise ship. If you a fishing trip, which is not "catch and release" oriented, you can your fishing guide on fish processing and shipping. After your fishing trip is over, you have edited your fish and again sent home for a fee. Ensure processing costs before you decide to keep your fish so that you can share your catch if you can't afford to send it back home.

Excursions can be expensive.

When you choose which fishing excursion , you can end spending about $250 for a day of fishing. Often, when you book a fishing trip with a Native Alaskan fishing Guide, you get a better price. For the most tours fishing license costs are not part of in advance and you must purchase a license.

You can be crowded.

The most Alaska cruise tours are complete until there is no place more available for the particular journey further. This means that might feel a little crowded on your fishing trip and the masses can sometimes derive from your enjoyment. Also with large fish , excursions passengers need to know probably different levels of fishing . With different expertise, the fishing guide must techniques to go on introductory fisheries . If you are a seasoned angler, lose to speed up fishing during novices.

If a cruise to Alaska, it simply, fit fishing in your itinerary. Whether you a cruise line fishing excursion or take you a day or the half day of fishing with a local guide book, enjoy the amazing experience the Alaska, is fishing. Happy fishing!

E. Klages offers Alaska Fishing information and advice online for anglers visit the frontier State. The website "Alaska Fishing 411" covers a wide range of topics from the Alaskan fish and top fishing spots Alaska fly fishing.

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Tribute to Ross-on-Wye man found with stabbing

  James Ball was always ready to help his family and friends, the tribute said the family of a man who was found with fatal injuries in the Herefordshire were described as a "person take care" which was "very well with children."

James Ball, 30, was found in a home in Copse Cross Street, Ross-on-Wye, Saturday night and died of his injuries in hospital.

His family, said Mr. Ball, who had worked as Chief, liked fishing.

A 22-year-old man has already appeared before magistrates charged with murder and was placed in pre-trial detention.

"Kind and generous."

Mr. Ball family said: "James Alan Ball unfortunately miss his mother, Pauline Ball." his father Richard Ball. his elder brother Andrew Ball. and his daughter for nine years, as well as his extended family and friends...

"His daughter especially tell his travels of fishing with Daddy." She also loved to write to and receiving letters from him. ?

In a tribute by the police, the family stated that Mr. Ball was "a good cook", who had worked in hotels and pubs and was "a great person to have as an uncle."

They said: "James was a benevolent person always ready to help his family and friends."

"He was kind and generous and would always be the first person to offer aid and comfort in the period difficult."

The family thanked the people who have contacted them their condolences.

View the original article here